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Author Topic: Trailblazer and the Merry Dogs of the Southern Cape  (Read 9909 times)
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Trailrider
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« on: September 15, 2009, 07:17:27 PM »

At last! A trip long in the making was finally here. I even even fitted some new tyres on my baby for this trip. Ain't she a beaut!



Before we start some background:

The idea for this ride started way back in January 2008 on this thread. Back then I only had the 200 and as it happens Trailblazer bought a 200 as well, so all of a sudden Trailrider & TrailBlazer were both riding red 200's and a nice trip together seemed a foregone conclusion. Trailblazer's living in Gauteng presented a challenge though and before we could go on our ride his bike was stolen (no insurance)

But sometimes it seems some rides are just meant to be. Months later Trailblazer managed to buy another bike - a TransAlp. As luck would have it Trailrider & TrailBlazer were now both riding TransAlps and the trip was back on

All of this brought us to Friday morning the 11th of September 08H45: Ready to Ride!



Trailblazer is on an epic 3-week ride currently. Some South Cape Wild Dogs and I would be privileged to join him for 3 days and show him around our neck of the woods. The plan was to take the scenic routes and sleep over in Gamkaskloof (The Hell) and Attakwaskloof.

We met up with Dr Dirt (and his exquisite black KTM990Adv) at the designated rendezvous point and headed out direction Montagu Pass.





Everything on this trip, every kilometer, would be a first for Trailblazer so we took it slowly to let him soak in as much as possible before the inevitable sensory overload set in. This meant lots of photo stops

Dr Dirt at the Old Toll House:



In days gone by Dr Dirt would have to pay 2 pennies for each wheel before he could pass here

Some more Montagu Pass scenery:





Over Montagu Pass we ride through Herold and on to Paarde Poort:





Paarde Poort spits you out in the Klein Karoo proper. Here we met up with GrysAlp from Outshoorn who rides a very nice bike indeed!



The route takes us past Dyselsdorp that boasts a licorice factory and a very nice church.

Quote

Dysselsdorp started in 1838 as a mission station. In 1877 John X Merriman (who later became prime minister of the Cape Colony) gave the land to the 148 coloured families that lived there. Dysselsdorp's most interesting feature is a Roman Catholic Chapel at the top of a Hill. The road to the Chapel "zig-zag's" up the hill and represents the different "stations" next to the "Via Dolorosa" en route to Golgotha (Calvary).




The view of the Swartberg Mountain Range from Dysselsdorp:



We have to sleep in those mountains tonight. Seems we might be in for a cold night...   Dr Dirt was not surprised at all to find that, after Western Province utterly humiliated the Bulls, Hell has indeed frozen over!

We carry on past De Rust and into the majestic Meirings Poort. I was almost jealous of Trailblazer who was seeing all of this this for the first time. I was leading and GrysAlp was sweeping, freeing up Trailblazer to enjoy the surroundings. What a beautiful country we live in



A quick stop at "Herrie se Klip"





and the Meiringspoort waterfall.



While Trailblazer went to photograph the waterfall we enjoyed the great scenery around the car park





In Klaarstroom we spotted Viking! What a nice surprise! Unfortunately he could not join us but at least wanted to say hallo. Dit was die eerste ek wat ek en Viking ontmoet en ek kon dadelik agterkom hy is 'n Bul. Hy is dan vol strooi!



All this while Dr Dirt tried to chat up some of the local lasses



We had to get a move-on. We're supposed to meet Eikeboom (from Somerset West (KLE500) the guy we we met on the RLT ride at Cederberg Oasis) in Prins Albert for lunch and as it happens we arrived in Prins Albert mere minutes apart. Lunch at the Swartberg Hotel it turned out to be - lamb, sweet potato, rice and veggies. Regte boerekos



After lunch we tackled the magnificence that is Swartberg Pass.







At the Hell turnoff we sadly had to say goodbye to GrysAlp who only joined us for the day. He rode ahead back to Oudtshoorn while 4 merry men took the broad way straight into Hell



What a pleasure this road turned out to be. The road was graded and improved recently with all stones removed and all potholes fixed.



Some water crossing fun:









And there she lay:



Even the road in the kloof itself is a pleasure to ride. We rode through the length of Gamkaskloof right to the property at the back were we would stay for the night. What a great spot!



The drinks and ice were unpacked first. We washed away the dust of the day discussing the marvelous ride we had and the routes that lay ahead. The fire was lit under the big pepper tree and the conversation carried on well into the night. It set the tone for what would be a wonderful weekend to remember.
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Sakkie
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« Reply #1 on: September 15, 2009, 08:08:34 PM »

Ai - dit lyk lekker!  En die "scenery" - WOW !  Evil   A1
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« Reply #2 on: September 15, 2009, 09:35:24 PM »

Lekker man...is daai grysalp se bike die nuwe version?

O ja....kon julle enige telefoon nommers kry daar by die kar park?  innocent
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« Reply #3 on: September 15, 2009, 09:37:52 PM »

Nee, dieselfde model as myne. Net met baie minder farkles Smile

Nee, die model wat ek by die huis het sal my farkle! Evil
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« Reply #4 on: September 15, 2009, 09:39:45 PM »

Was julle sonde pillions?
Lekker gelyk - lyk of die weer ook lekker was
Sommer van voor af jaloers ek was nie saam nie - volgende keer
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« Reply #5 on: September 15, 2009, 09:40:29 PM »

Almal sonder pillions ja. Ons het op dag twee elkeen 'n lekker "babbie" saam gery Big Grin
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« Reply #6 on: September 15, 2009, 09:52:33 PM »

Lekke!! Ek sien die manne was weer sonder die vroue. Meiringspoort waterfall het weer ander aantrekkings kragte gehad.  Big Grin


PS. Jy dalk vir my ook daai nommer wat Rooibok soek? innocent
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AKA Rowwerot
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« Reply #7 on: September 15, 2009, 10:01:15 PM »

555-BABE Cool
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« Reply #8 on: September 16, 2009, 09:19:16 PM »

082?  innocent
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« Reply #9 on: September 17, 2009, 01:34:08 PM »

This morning we were up (not so) bright and early

Hulle se dis die slaap wat jou so laat sleg voel, want gisteraand het ons so lekker gevoel en nou, net na ons geslaap het, voel ons so - soos 'n vrag kaark wat skeef gelaai is!

But what a setting. This look at this!



How can being in a place like this not lift your spirits?

The ride out started with some nice and cool water crossings. Dr Dirt bringing the Katoom through:



Eikeboom:



Like I said before the roads are a pleasure to ride. The locals told us that this will only stay the case till the next rains come



Trailblazer coming up the pass:



Saying goodbye to the kloof one last time.



It was Dr Dirt, Eikeboom and Trailblazer's first visit to The Hell. They were not in a hurry to leave this wonderful place.



The ride out towards Swartberg Pass:







Back on Swarberg Pass we continued to ride the rest of the Pass towards Oudshoorn. Like I said it was the first time Trailblazer was seeing all of this. We stopped at "Die Top".

The view North:



The View South:


Riding down these scenic passes I often switch off the engine and just "free" down, focusing on the scenery, sights, sounds and smells. You never get tired of riding in places like these

Trailblazer, Eikeboom and Dr. Dirt cruising down:



We head to Calitzdorp for lunch and to meet up fellow Wild Dogs "Pad" (GS1200) and Dusty (GS650) via the gravel road running along the Southern slopes of the Swartberg Mountain range.


A solitary house along the road.



The Calitzdorp dam:



We met up with Pad and Dusty at the Queens Bikers Pub for lunch and soon we were back to our best form, joking around and having a good ol' time

After stocking up on fuel and supplies we headed out. Tonight we sleep in Attakwaskloof.

Rooiberg Pass towards Van Wykdorp - Eikeboom rounding the corner:





Riding along with the fresh air in my face all of a sudden a bee flew into my helmet and got stuck between my helmet and my cheek Not again... I performed an emergency stop and got my helmet off as fast as possible, only to see the bee fly away. What luck!

A quick stop for refreshments and regroup.



Eikeboom has this habbit of setting up his camera on a stone or something, setting the timer and running back to be in his own picture. At this spot he decided on a high shot and he climbed up on some rocks the set the camera up. We told him there is no way he'll be able to get back from there in time... Well, as often happens good advice gets ignored He hit the button and set off faster than Castor Semenya down that mountain. He had impressive speed down the downhill So much so that he picked up a speed wobble while breaking the sound barrier and his brakes failed him completely! He came to a halt in a helluva dust explosion at our feet In a flash he was up and posing in case the picture has not been taken yet And guess what...

He made it!


(Photo provided by Eikeboom)

Looking at the above picture you'd never know what transpired just moments before. Talk about posing!

Van Wyksdorp:



Crossing the Gourits river:



The magnificent Attakwaskloof:



Everybody negotiated the marbles successfully. We were especially proud of Dusty who was nervous about it beforehand but crossed it like an expert. "Marbles? What marbles?" Cheesy



And finally at camp we all had a few cold ones to celebrate the day It is here that I saw to what extremes GS luxury can go. Talk about "ingerig"! Pad had everything. And I mean everything. He started with a Bloody Mary with all the trimmings and it was downhill from there... Crisps, snacks and salamis were unpacked. This was a Royal feast!



And the goings-on of the previous night was to be repeated



...but with one exception - for the first time I was out voted as to who the loudest snorer was I was on my game. I did my best. But it was unanimously agreed that I have been dethroned big time. Pad seems to be the new champion. Well done my friend. Wear the crown with pride We will have a rematch one day
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« Reply #10 on: September 17, 2009, 06:51:43 PM »

Nice report TR, looks like great fun.
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« Reply #11 on: September 19, 2009, 09:52:15 PM »

When we got up this morning everybody was surprisingly chirpy



Pad once again surprised with even more luxuries emerging from his big GS. He takes "roughing it" to a whole different level. Take note - this is a good person to have along on a trip



We hit the road, but not far from the campsite I noticed that no-one was behind me anymore.



I have been one several rides along this road and people regularly come off on this section. Hopefully this was not the case now

It soon became apparent that they did not simply fall behind, so I started riding back. Between trying to look around corners in case they were coming the other way and worrying about what happened I did not concentrate on where I was riding myself. I hit a rock that threw me off course and then subsequently hit a HUGE rock. It hit me with such violence that it threw the whole bike in the air. Luckily I was able to recover but the damage later revealed just how big the impact was:



It seriously bent some thick steel. Luckily this happened after I eventually fitted the bash plate! And it did a sterling job I might ad. No damage to the bike itself at all.

Riding on I came upon this scene: Dr Dirt had a flat front tyre. He has a centre stand, but most of the weight rest on the front so the back had to be weighed down:

The KTM990 Vingerklip:



Dr Dirt proceeded to fix the puncture while Dusty decided to catch some shade:



Eventually the tube was patched and Dr Dirt inflated the tyre, only to find that it deflated again immediately. Now what? It wasn't long before Dr Dirt sheepishly admitted that he forgot to put the valve back! Haha! Luckily this problem was easily remedied and we soon were on our way.
After an hour in the sun the first stop was the 8 Bells Country Inn for some liquid refreshment Some other bikers had the same idea. They had no dust though.



Smelly bikers to the side!



From here it's a small hop back to George passing the Botlierskop Game reserve.





We said our goodbyes to Dr Dirt, Pad & Dusty and Trailblazer and I headed home where, upon arrival, we found beers lying in ice, wine chilled to perfection and the fire burning! How many bikers return from a trip to a reception like this? When I married this girl I struck gold!



The rest of the day was spent (beer in hand) laughing and telling all about the trip we had. And of course it still wasn't finished While the other riders headed home and had to work the next (Monday) morning, I was going to join Trailblazer via the 7 Passes Road towards Kom-se-Pad
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« Reply #12 on: September 19, 2009, 11:20:15 PM »

Klink of dit nog in classic naweek was!   A1

Thanks vir die RR.
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« Reply #13 on: September 20, 2009, 10:46:26 AM »

Our weekend ride was over, but Trailblazer still had a long way to go on his 3 week holiday. I joined him on the 7 Passes road and all the way to the Kom-se-Pad turnoff which could be tricky to find. This a special route and it was a honour to show him around one last day.

According to the definition a "Pass" is a road crossing a natural barrier, usually a mountain, but it could also be a river or a gorge. The passes of the Seven passes road crosses rivers and the Homtini Gorge.

This 75 kilometer road was completed in 1883. Before this road was built, travel between George and Knysna was by no means easy. Andrew Geddes Bain, when wanting to describe just how horrible a certain pass was, said: "the fearful ruggedness outstrips even that between George and Knysna, and that is saying enough..."

The passes road was built over a period of 16 years and and the construction of the 75 kilometers was very fragmented, with bits being done here and there as was most convenient and economical.



In 1867 the project of building the road got the green light and Adam de Smidt comenced construction from George. By 1869 De Smidt reached the Kaaimans & Silver River gorges (the first two passes of the seven, travelling East) and the work here was only eventually completed in 1875.   

In 1903 & 1904 respectively the timber bridges over the Kaaiman's and Silver rivers were replaced by stone bridges. The section of road closest to George was tarred and used as an alternative route to the N2 while that road was upgraded. It's amazing to think that this small road was the main route between Knysna & George in modern times.

The Kaaimans Bridge (1904):





The Silver River Bridge (1903):





Climbing to the plateau behind Wilderness Heights the tar road ends and you hit the first gravel.



The 3rd pass takes you over the Touw River. This pass and rest of the passes are all gravel (although the roads in between are tarred intermittently), but where the bridges actually cross the river there are short sections of tar either side of the bridge.



The Touw River Bridge is the last surviving iron bridge on the old road between George and Knysna. The ironwork of the 95ft clear span was built in 1897 by Messrs Braithwaite and co. of West Bromwich, England and shipped out to Mossel Bay. It was then conveyed in fourteen wagon loads to the site over two months. The estimated cost of the ironwork was 3850 Pounds and the approximate weight of the entire bridge was 57 English Tons. The completed bridge was opened for transport in 1898.



Hoogekraal Pass is the fourth pass on this route. It's very similar (though smaller) to the Touw river pass but has a more modern bridge.







Karatara Pass (5th): The first nugget of gold was found in the Karatara river bed in 1875. This find, along with the finds at Millwood had an influence on this route, causing it to be built closer to the mountains.



Homtini pass (6th) is my personal favourite of the seven passes. It crosses the dreaded Homtini gorge and this pass was a major construction feat, with the road curdling down two and a half kilometers to the bottom of the gorge and up the other side, through dense indigenous forest.

Bulpin describes the pass as "a classic piece of old time road making with dramatic views and the indefinable elegance of its curves."

This most attractive pass was in effect completed in 1882, but was only available for traffic the following year.







And finally Phantom Pass. The construction of the passes road continued to join the Phantom Pass near Knysna. Phantom Pass was named, it is said, after the white Phantom Moth found in the area. This road was the first bit of the Passes road to be built (by Bain), but it was upgraded in 1882 when it was required to carry through traffic.



The passes road was completed in 1883, sixteen years after work commenced on it. It was the main road between George and Knysna for almost 70 years, until the National Road was completed in 1952, and still serves the area through which it passes.

By now the weather was moving in and it seemed like I could expect some rain on the way back to George. The Knysna Heads:



I escorted Trailblazer to the turnoff to Gouna and we said our goodbyes. I envied him as he rode off towards Kom-se-Pad and Baviaans.



Safe travels my friend.

I did not want my ride to be over yet, so I decided to head to George along the N2 and stop along the way at every beach, but as soon as I hit the N2 the first drops started falling so I hightailed it home.

Riding past Buffelsbay and Sedgefield I realized I was going to get wet either way so I stopped near Wilderness to admire the view:



and again at Wilderness Beach:





The spot where the Kaaimans river flows into the ocean is the site of another historic bridge. This is where the railway line between George and Knysna crosses the river. The Kaaimans River Bridge is known as an excellent spot for taking photographs of the scenery and the Outeniqua Tjoe-Choo as it passed over the ocean on its journey between George and Knysna.



In 1922 the Railways and Harbours Board recommended the construction of a railway between George and Knysna, a distance of approximately 67 kilometers, at an estimated cost of 296 820 pounds. The building of the line was started simultaneously from George and Knysna in 1924. Although the railway from George to Knysna was available for goods and passenger traffic since May 1928, it was formally opened by the Minister of Railways and Harbours, the Hon. C. W. Malan, on Wednesday, October 17th. When this line was built it was regarded as the most expensive piece of clickety clack in the world. Today it is billed as the most beautiful.

The line travels through two tunnels of moderate length, cut into the hills above the sea, before it approaches the Kaaimans River Bridge, 210 meters long and 36 meters high.

Sadly the railway line was badly damaged in the floods of 2006 and the train has not run since. It is unsure if it ever will again



I rode down the new Kaaimans Pass and stopped at this causeway (just off the N2) next to the Kaaimans River.



By now it was well and truly raining and I was drenched but happy.

Trailblazer it was good to ride with you and even better to make a new friend. See you again next year.

My route today:



Quote

The source most used in this ride report (sometimes quoted verbatim) is "The Romance of Cape Mountain Passes" written by Graham Ross.



It is an excellent resource, well written and I highly recommend buying this book if you plan to ride the passes of the Cape provinces. Every Dual Sport rider should have one!


« Last Edit: September 20, 2009, 10:51:24 AM by Trailrider » Logged

“Remember what Bilbo used to say: It's a dangerous business, Frodo, going out your door. You step onto the road, and if you don't keep your feet, there's no knowing where you might be swept off to.”
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« Reply #14 on: September 20, 2009, 11:02:55 AM »

Baie nice RR, TR.
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« Reply #15 on: September 20, 2009, 02:31:28 PM »

Puik! Ek kan nie wag om self daardie paaie en passe aan te durf nie!

Wat se die manne van n by wat altyd die ou wat allergies is sal 'target' Evil Baie bly dit was nie weer n herhaling van laaskeer se benoude oomblikke!  Eek!

Groete  Cheesy
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« Reply #16 on: September 20, 2009, 03:01:57 PM »

Hmmmm - daai deel van die land moet ek nog kom sien
Sal 'n plan moet maak
Hel, ons het darem 'n mooi land en dinge om te sien en doen
Werklik bevoorreg
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